Dragon Pet Door for Doors - Installation Instructions
Time Required 1 - 2 hours
- 1 Flap and Frame Assembly
- 4 Long Frame Screws - 2 ¼" long 10-24 machine screws
- 4 Short Frame Screws - 1 ¾" long 10-24 machine screws
- 4 Frame Nuts - serrated flange 10-24 hex nuts
- 4 Frame Washers - steel 9/16" washers
- 1 Locking Cover - rectangular sheet with a hole near the top
- Phillips screwdriver
- Electric drill
- 5/16” or 3/8“ drill bit
- Jigsaw, painter’s tape
- Flathead screwdriver (optional)
- 3/8” socket or wrench (optional)
- Pliers (optional)
Step 1 Align the Template
- If possible, remove the door from its hinges using a flathead screwdriver and hammer to tap out the hinge pins. Lay the door flat for installation. Tape the installation template to the door where you want to install this face up.
- Place the top edge of this template at least 2" above your pet's shoulders.
- Check that the bottom of the template is at least 1" from the bottom of the door to maintain the door's strength.
- Check the template top edge with a level.
Step 2 Make the Rough Cutout
- Mark the physical outline of this template with a sharp pencil. Remove this template from the door.
- With a 5/16th (8mm) or or 3/8” (9,5 mm) drill bit (5/16” preferred), drill through the corners of the outline with the tip of the bit directly on the outline’s corners.
- Make sure your drill is kept level and that it drills all the way through the door.
- Place your jigsaw into the holes and cut along the lines you drew. You should be making a rectangle connecting the center of each of the holes. Cut as straight as possible; aim to not deviate more than 1/8” from the line on either side.
Step 3 Test Fit the Frame Tunnels
- If you have a single flap unit, the frame with the flaps installed goes on the outside of your house (the "outside" frame). If you have a double flap unit, the frame are identical and interchangeable.
- To test fit the frame tunnels (the flanges on the back of the frame), lay the outside frame face down on the floor.
- Fit the inside frame into the outside frame by first placing the bottom of the inside frame’s tunnel into the bottom-left slot of the outside frame’s tunnel.
- Next, place the right side of the inside frame’s tunnel into the top right slot of the outside frame’s tunnel.
- There is only one way that the frames fit together. If you need to force it then it is the wrong way.
- Remove the frames from each other once you are familiar with how they fit together.
Step 4 Align Frame Pieces
- Rehang your door if you took it off its hinges. Place the outside frame over the rough cutout. Do not place the inside frame into the door yet.
- At least one of the outside frame’s four locator posts (small posts extending from the bottom of the frame—three pictured in the image) will rest on the bottom of the cutout.
- Use painter’s tape to temporarily hold the outside frame in the door. Place tape all around the frame, tightly adhering to the door.
- Use more tape than you think you need. It helps to keep the frame in place during installation.
- Ensure that the screw holes in the frame are all visible through the cutout opening, looking at the back of the frame.
Step 5 Fit the Frames Together
- Fit the inside frame into the outside frame, same as in Step 3. You may need to hold the outside frame to keep it from being pushed out.
- Press frames together until both are flush with the door. The locator posts of the inside frame will not be in contact with the rough cutout.
- Use painter’s tape to temporarily hold the inside frame in the door.
Step 6 Position the Frames
- Make sure to read through every part of this step before starting.
- If your door is 1 ¾” thick, use the longer 2 ¼” screws provided. If it is 1 ⅜” thick, use the shorter 1 ¾” screws provided.
- Do not overtighten screws. Tighten just enough for the frames to sit sturdily flush with the door.
Step 7 Screw the Frames in Place
- Reach around the door and place a nut into one of the four pockets on the outside frame, pressing it into the floor of the pocket. Hold it there through the next step.
- Place a frame screw (the 2 ¼” or 1 ¾” screws) with a washer into and through the matching pocket on the inside frame. Start turning the frame screw until it begins to thread into the nut.
- If you miss getting the screw through the other frame, you can use pliers or a magnet to assist in pulling the screw out. A magnet can also help pull the screw through.
- Partially tighten down with a #2 Phillips-head screwdriver. Press the nut into the frame as you tighten it to lock the nut in place. The serrations bite so you don’t have to grip the nut directly. Once the tip of the screw comes through the nut you can press on that instead for the same effect.
- If the nut refuses to stay in place then a ⅜” socket, thin ⅜” wrench, pliers, or vice grips can be used to hold the nut.
- Repeat for all four screws, level the frame, then finish tightening each screw.
Step 8 Seal the Frames
- At this point, there should be washers under the screws on the inside frame and nuts on the outside frame at each of the four points.
- Remove any remaining tape.
- If the frame positions need to be adjusted, loosen screws without removing the nut, make the adjustments, and tighten back down.
- Ensure the frames are flush with your door, are level, and are sturdy.
- With a silicone sealant of your choice, we recommend sealing any gaps on the corners of the inside of the frames, as well as anywhere the two frames meet.
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